TEMPLE OF HATSHEPSUT

HISTORY 

The Temple of Hatshepsut is a mortuary temple situated on the west bank of the Nile River near modern day Luxor in Dier-el-Bahri. It was designed by Hatshepsut’s architect, Senenmut, and modeled after the mortuary temple of Mentuhotep II, an 11th dynasty pharaoh whose reign marked the start of the Middle Kingdom. The temple is built into the cliffs that surround the Theban necropolis and is adjacent to the Valley of the Kings. The construction of the temple took approximately 15 years to complete. 

Hatshepsut is an important part of Ancient Egyptian history in that she parted with tradition and crowned herself Pharaoh of Egypt. Upon the death of her husband, Thutmose II, Hatshepsut was appointed regent since her late husband’s son, Thutmose III, was too young to assume the crown. It was in year 7 of the regency that Hatshepsut took the monumental step of crowning herself Pharaoh. Her years as Pharaoh were marked with prosperity and peace - successful trade, growing economy, and public work projects that provided ample employment. 

FAST FACTS

The temple consists of three levels each connected with a central, wide ramp and it is accessed by a causeway that is approximately 120 feet wide. This temple, like others throughout Egypt, would have had an entrance pylon and a set of obelisks but today, there are no remains. 

During ancient times, the first courtyard was a beautiful garden filled with trees and shrubbery that Hatshepsut brought to Egypt from her legendary trading expeditions to the land of Punt. 

The second ramp is guarded by two lion statues while the entrance of the third ramp has two statues of the god Horus depicted as a falcon. The ramp to the third level is also bordered by two colonnades - on the right is the Birth Colonnade and to the left is the Punt Colonnade. The former portrays the divine birth of Hatshepsut while the latter depicts various scenes of her famous trading expedition to Punt. This marks Ancient Egypt’s first recorded pictorial documentation of a trade expedition.

On the southern and northern ends of the second level courtyard, there are two chapels. The Hathor Chapel on the southern end is dedicated to the goddess Hathor, one of the gods associated with the Theban Necropolis. It contained 12 columns of which only a few survive. These columns were topped with images of Hathor just like the columns found at the Temple of Denderah. The chapel on the northern end is the one dedicated to Anubis and contains twelve columns and an astronomical ceiling. 

Remains of the Hathor Chapel 

Astronomical Ceiling 

The third level courtyard is bordered by the Royal Cult Chapel and Solar Cult Chapel on the sides and the Sanctuary of Amun towards the back. The sanctuary was cut into the cliffs and is aligned with Hatshepsut’s tomb in the Valley of the Kings. 

Sanctuary of Amun

Sanctuary of Amun

After her death, Thutmose III carved away images of Hatshepsut and at times replaced them with images of himself. 

VISITING THE TEMPLE

The Temple of Hatshepsut is not a standard item on most tours so I was very fortunate that Trafalgar had this site as part of their 12 day trip itinerary. On my first trip to Egypt, my tour bus drove past the temple affording the opportunity to view it from afar but during this recent journey, I was able to spend one hour exploring the site. Our guide gave us a brief tour of the first level and then, we were given free time to explore the second and third levels.

The visit to this temple was very enjoyable given the cool winter weather and minimal crowds at the site. When I was exploring the temple, few people were touring the third level but in the sanctuary, there were two gentlemen who claimed to be ‘guards’ and they were hassling guests to take their picture which in turn would lead to hassling for a tip. Other than those two folks, there were no vendors or ‘guides’ to be found at the temple; all were towards the entrance by the ticket booth. 

If visiting during the summer months, I highly suggest wearing a hat and sunscreen. There is minimal shade at the temple and there is no shade provided at the locations where one can board the tram to and from the temple. Unlike other temples, the terrain was more even and the only dimly lit area was the sanctuary.

NOTE One can either walk or ride a tram to the temple from the entrance. My tour group took the tram to the temple but I, along with my guide and a tour mate, walked back to the entrance. The walk was enjoyable given the weather but in the warmer months, the tram may be a better idea. 

Looking towards the entrance and bus
parking lot from the temple's first ramp. 

NOTE Those with mobility issues may struggle a bit climbing the ramps and steps that join each level. While they are not steep, it is a bit of a walk given the length of the ramps plus there are no handrails. 

SOUVENIRS IN EGYPT

Egypt is souvenir heaven with almost every market and site selling trinkets to tourists. The only downside to purchasing souvenirs is that most places do not post prices or you are required to haggle for one. Between my two trips to Egypt, I have bought many souvenirs but would have purchased that much more if shopping was an easier experience. The only two places I have visited that posted prices and sales people did not chase you around were the Isis Papyrus Museum and Store in Luxor and the University of Cairo bookstore in Aswan. 

My Egypt Collection
Top Shelf: Bowl with pyramid and Saharan sand, Egyptian pin, stuffed camel,
Arabian head piece, belly dancing scarf, Nubian dolls, alabaster blue sphinx
Second Shelf: Horus book ends, books purchased online and in Egypt
Third Shelf: Bottle, cans, juice box; picture collage from 1st trip; Collectors edition book
Bottom Shelf: Belly dancing outfit and more books

The following are examples of souvenirs one can purchase while touring Egypt along with some recommendations. 

Postcards

Postcards are one of the more popular souvenir items and can easily be found at most places in Egypt. On my first trip, our tour guide helped us obtain two very nice sets of postcards - one at Abu Simbel and the other outside the Roman Catacombs in Alexandria. For my recent journey, I was able to purchase good quality postcards at the Le Meridien Pyramids hotel and then, at the Valley of the Kings, our tour guide showed us an excellent postcard set with CD that we were able to buy for 100 LE (about $5.60 USD). Unfortunately, the postcards I purchased at Abu Simbel during my 2018 trip were horrible quality - blurry images and thin paper. 

I recommend that one purchases postcards at Valley of the Kings and Abu Simbel since you are not allowed to take pictures inside the tombs and temples. However, ask your tour guide for help in selecting the postcards since they generally know where to buy the better quality ones. 

Books 

Books are another item that make a great souvenir. On both trips, I visited a bookstore branch of the University of Cairo located in the market stalls by the Unfinished Obelisk in Aswan. This is a really nice store selling books on a myriad of topics in several languages. The store also sells postcards, toys, bookmarks, and miniature maps. Another great aspect of the store is that all items have a fixed price and no haggling is required. Between my two trips, I have purchased about 15 books covering Ancient Egyptian history, temple art and architecture, and history of the Coptic Christians. 

NOTE If you intend to purchase books, remember to pack lighter so you do not exceed the airline weight limit on luggages. For my 2018 trip, all the books I purchased were hard cover and they added about 10 pounds to my luggage. 

Papyrus Paintings 

Papyrus paintings are a popular souvenir item and can be found basically anywhere in Egypt. The only issue is that the paintings sold in some markets are not genuine papyrus but rather made of banana leaves. On both trips, we were taken to the Isis 2 Papyrus Museum and Store in Luxor which makes and sells genuine, quality papyrus paintings. I have purchased three paintings from the store - a painting of the Pharaoh Ramesses making an offering to the goddess Isis, a map of Ancient Egypt, and a painting of the Tree of Life and Knowledge. The paintings sold at the store range in price from less than a hundred dollars to some costing more than a thousand dollars. 

NOTE When in Egypt, talk to your tour guide or hotel manager to get recommendations on where to purchase authentic papyrus paintings. 

NOTE The papyrus paintings are rolled and placed in a cardboard tube so they are easy to carry and transport. I highly suggest placing the tubes in your carry-on luggage so they do not get crushed because the cardboard is not that strong. 

Cartouche

A cartouche contained the inscribed name of a king or queen and it was oval shaped and enclosed by a rope styled border. In Egypt, tourists can purchase a personalized cartouche as a unique keepsake in a variety of formats - necklace, engraved on a shirt or sweatshirt, etc. These items are available on board the Nile cruises, in some hotels, and markets. During my first trip to Egypt, I purchased a cartouche as a necklace on board the Nile cruise as recommended by my tour guide. The cartouche was made of silver and was approximately $25 with the chain costing an additional $20. On my recent trip, I visited the jewelry store on board the Nile cruise interested in purchasing a second cartouche necklace but they were too expensive. The sales person was offering a white gold cartouche for about $550 with the chain costing an extra $150. Some of my tour mates purchased colorful shirts and sweatshirts engraved with a cartouche and while they were nice, I prefer the cartouche as a necklace.

The silver has tarnished over 8 years.

Essential Oils 

During my first trip, our tour guide took us to a perfume and essential oils store which seem to be very popular in Aswan. It was not a pleasant experience since the sales people were extremely assertive and the essential oils were a bit pricey considering the quality and quantity per bottle. In order to get the sales people to leave me alone, I did a ‘buy three get one free deal’ purchasing 4 bottles of essential oils that I will definitely never use. My recent tour guide offered to take us to an essential oils store but I declined given my previous experience and then, in a later discussion, he stated that many times the oils sold in stores catering to tourists are not the best quality. 

Rugs

Carpets are another interesting souvenir one can purchase in Egypt. On this recent trip, my tour mates and I had the opportunity to visit the Akhnaton Carpets School in Giza. The first floor of the building serves as a school for children to learn the trade of carpet weaving and said children and their teachers gave us a short demonstration. Then we were guided to the second floor that was filled with tons of rugs of all shapes and sizes. While the rugs were beautiful, most were a bit expensive for my budget. A small square that was meant to serve as a coaster cost almost $30. From my experience, stores that cater to tourists tend to have higher prices so if interested in a rug, visit one for the locals. 

The above items are just a sample of some of the souvenirs one can purchase while in Egypt. I have also bought a belly dancing outfit, stuffed toy camel, Nubian dolls, hibiscus tea leaves, notebooks, and a necklace made of camel bones. I purchased the belly dancing outfit in an Aswan market for the Nile cruise’s Egyptian night and I will never forget how I spent about 20 minutes haggling with the seller for a decent price. In the end, I paid $35 for the outfit and determined that I have no haggling skills. The Nubian dolls and necklace I purchased at the Temple of Philae and both are amongst my favorite souvenirs. As for the hibiscus tea leaves, on my recent trip when we had some free time, our tour guide took us to a local market in Aswan that sold a variety of teas, herbs, and spices. 

Nubian dolls

Necklace made of camel bones

Aswan herb and spice market

Coptic Christian prayer beads

THE TEMPLE OF EDFU

HISTORY 

The Temple of Edfu is located in ancient Upper Egypt between the modern cities of Luxor and Aswan on the west bank of the Nile River. The temple is the second largest in Egypt and took approximately 180 years to build with construction starting in 237 BC by Ptolemy III. The location was selected on the believe that it was the site of the infamous battle between the gods Horus and Seth - Horus exacting revenge on Seth for having murdered his father Osiris. The Temple of Edfu melds traditional Egyptian elements with Greek influences and was built to honor the triad of Horus, Hathor, and their son, Hor Sama Tawy. 

FAST FACTS 

The temple’s main structure is comprised of a main entrance, a courtyard, and a chapel. 

To the west of the temple is a mamisi (birth house) where the annual Festival of Coronation was held to honor the divine births of the god Horus and the Pharaoh. 

The pylons at the entrance of the temple stand at 118 feet high and are decorated with battle scenes of the Pharaoh Ptolemy VIII. These pylons are amongst the tallest in Egypt. 

Beyond the pylons is an open courtyard adorned with columns topped with floral themed capitals. In the courtyard, one finds two black granite statues of Horus each with a height of 10 feet.

After the courtyard, there are two hypostyle halls with the second called the Festival Hall. This hall led to another referred to as the Hall of Offerings which in turn led to the Sanctuary, the holiest section of the temple. The sanctuary was surrounded by various chambers and chapels. 

The shrine that carried the statue of the god. 

The French archeologist Auguste Mariette discovered the Temple of Edfu in the 1860s.

VISITING THE TEMPLE AT EDFU 

I have visited the Temple of Edfu twice and it is one of my favorite temples because I simply love the walls filled with thousands of hieroglyphs that share stories of Ancient Egypt, the gods, and so much more. Unfortunately, both visits have been short with the most recent trip providing almost no free time after the guided tour. This is definitely one temple I could easily spend two to three hours just walking around enjoying the beautiful architecture and art. I highly recommend that if possible to arrange a visit without a tour group so you can spend adequate time at the site. 

The Temple of Edfu is a large temple and the crowds are always massive since the site is a standard item on most Nile Cruise itineraries. Independent travelers can visit the temple later in the afternoon to escape the heavier crowds since it seems that most Nile Cruise tour groups arrive in the morning. On my first trip to Egypt, my tour group traveled to the temple via a charter bus but on this recent journey, since we were just a group of 8, we took a horse and carriage. The horse and carriage ride was absolutely wonderful since we rode through the town of Edfu passing by markets and homes and seeing the Egyptians in action headed to work and school or selling food items and home goods. It was also an enjoyable ride since it was a cool, sunny morning and the gentleman leading our horse was sweet and did not chase us at the end for extra tip. Another aspect that made the carriage ride enjoyable was that our tour guide arranged everything so we did not need to haggle for a good rate. 

The temple itself offers some wonderful photo opportunities. The main pylons are almost complete and serve as a great background for a picture. Inside the courtyard one finds the granite statues of Horus which generally have a line of folks waiting for a photo opportunity. One thing I enjoyed was taking hundreds of pictures and videos of the walls engraved with hieroglyphs and images of the pharaohs with the gods and goddesses of Ancient Egypt. 

NOTE The ground at the Temple of Edfu is relatively level so those with mobility issues should not have a problem walking around the site. Portions of the temple interior are poorly lit so one needs to be cautious when walking. 

NOTE I noticed on this recent trip that the vendors at the temple were very assertive. They are stationed at the entrance/exit. If you are with a tour guide, he will help you navigate through the market.

NOTE My tour mate Alicia is an equestrian and owns several horses. She believes that the horses were in good condition, no sores or bad feet. Some horses were skinny but otherwise appeared to be healthy. 

LIFE IN EGYPT

Egypt is so much more than sandy deserts and stony temples and tombs. It is a country steeped in history where one gets immersed in a world of fascinating traditions, wonderful people, and amazing sights. Cairo to the north is a fast paced vibrant metropolis with the old and new melding to create a beautiful artwork of the ancient intertwined with the modern. In the heart of the city, one sees rustic, historical buildings, temples, and markets while the outskirts are home to modern, western influenced apartments, stores, and entertainment centers. Driving through Cairo, one hears the traditional songs of the Egyptian people played alongside modern Arabic pop music. The streets are filled with elder gentlemen dressed in galabeyas (tunics) while the younger crowds don brand name jeans and sneakers.

Southern Egypt is just as beautiful with its rolling sand dune hills, cooling desert breeze, and amazing blue skies. Since Aswan and Luxor have less traffic than Cairo, and thus substantially less pollution, the night skies are filled with twinkling stars and the bright moon. Markets come to life with the vibrant colors of fabrics, fruits, and flowers and the scents of spices, perfumes, and incense. The Nile flows lazily around boulders while the islands that dot the river are adorned with a multitude of singing birds and beautiful plants and flowers.