Saturday, June 30, 2018

WHAT TO WEAR & PACK WHEN VISITING EGYPT

DRESS CODE

While Egypt is a predominantly Muslim country there are no restrictions in terms of a dress code for tourists. Furthermore, females are not required to cover their hair. It is only asked that women dress conservatively as a respect to Egyptians and their culture; however, this is only a suggestion and I have come across plenty of female tourists in Egypt that dressed very much the opposite of conservative.

The only time you will be asked to observe a dress code is if you visit a mosque. In my first trip to Egypt, our tour guide asked the females to wear longer shorts and to cover the shoulders while on my second trip, the men were asked to not wear shorts. I do remember that on my first trip females that were wearing short shorts, short or sleeveless dresses, or tank tops were given a robe to cover up. Also, guests are asked to remove their shoes but there is the option of opting for shoe covers, similar to what surgeons wear at hospitals, if you wish to keep them on. I do recommend that if you plan on removing your shoes that you wear thick socks. During my last trip, the carpet in the mosque had several sections covered with fresh pigeon poop and it was not fun stepping on that with very thin socks!

As for the cruise, the two M/S ships I have sailed on did not have any dress requirements. When I did some research on Nile cruise ships, I noticed that the more luxurious ships did have a dress code for dinner hour but it was more along the lines of “business casual” not “tuxedos and evening gowns”.

EGYPT...HOT OR COLD?

Both!! While summers are incredibly hot in Egypt, winters can be considerably cold.

During my recent trip, January 8th through 21st, it was rather cold in the mornings and evenings. Most days, the lows reached the mid-40s while the warmest temperature was in the low 70s. When I was in Aswan and Abu Simbel, the winds were pretty strong which made it feel a lot colder than the 40s. The worst was the evening when my tour group went to the Sound and Light Show at the Pyramids in Giza. It was in the low 40s and extremely windy which was not pleasant when one had to sit outside for an hour. This may be why they were renting blankets! Also, the cold weather forced me indoors in the Nile cruise; it was too cold most evenings to sit in the upper deck.

My first trip to Egypt was between October 30th and November 8th and the weather was perfect. The mornings and evenings were cool while afternoons were warm and sunny. Also, during this trip, there was hardly any wind except for a light breeze some evenings. I packed a light jacket for this journey and that was sufficient.

Based on my experience, and discussions with my tour guide, spring and late fall seem to be the best times to visit Egypt. During the summer, temperatures can reach 110 Fahrenheit which can make sightseeing a bit of an unpleasant experience given the minimal shade at the temples and tombs. These hot summer months are best if one plans on partaking in water activities, such as diving and parasailing, either in Hurghada or Sharm El-Sheikh. 

NOTE I suggest warm sleepwear for winter trips since the heaters may not be functional at the hotels. When I stayed at the Le Meridien Pyramids in January of 2018, my room was rather cold and the heater was not working well. Even though the bed had a thick comforter, I was still cold most of the night. Fortunately, the room temperature was a bit better on the Nile cruise but definitely come prepared with warm clothes in the event your room feels like an igloo. 

CLOTHES AND EGYPTIAN AIRPORTS

When in Egypt, if you plan on taking any internal flights, I highly recommend you wear coats and shoes that can be removed easily and quickly. I went through 4 airports in Egypt - Cairo, Luxor, Aswan, and Abu Simbel - with each having two security checkpoints that required one to remove their coats, belts, and shoes. I noticed that men were asked to remove their hats; however, the security agents allowed me keep on my knitted cap. Also, some of these check points do not have tables so it is definitely a balancing act of holding your carry-on with one hand while the other holds the bin filled with your shoes, coat, etc.

SHOES FOR SIGHTSEEING

I recommend sturdy, closed-toed walking shoes especially when visiting Giza, Saqqara, and Valley of the Kings. These three sites require considerable walking over sandy, rocky, uneven terrain with the occasional mound of animal poop. The sturdy shoes are especially needed in the Valley of the Kings where one encounters uneven ground and steep climbs and descents inside the tombs. I have been inside 9 tombs and 5 required climbing narrow, steep stairs and inclines.* Another site where I highly suggest sturdy shoes is the area of the Unfinished Obelisk in Aswan since one has to walk and climb very rocky and uneven terrain. As for the temples, most have even terrain and do not require much climbing, either stairs or inclines. 

*In a future post, I will provide more detailed information about visiting the Valley of the Kings.

LESSONS LEARNED IN PACKING

Toiletries and Over-the-Counter Medicines: 
On my first trip, I seriously went overboard when packing these items and in the end, I barely used most of them. For my recent journey to Egypt, I learned my lesson and only took bandaids, medicine for headaches and upset stomach, sanitary napkins, and water purification tablets. I used all except the water purification tablets since we were provided water bottles on the tour bus/shuttle and on the Nile cruise. Also, there is no need to overpack since most hotels in Egypt have a store where one can purchase basic toiletries and tour guides can take you to a pharmacy as needed for over-the-counter medicines. 

Hats and Sunglasses: 
The sun is really bright in Egypt and most sites provide minimal shade. A knitted cap is a great idea for those cooler months since they provide warmth and protection against the wind. 

Glasses:
I wear contacts and had issues with them when the winds were really strong. I can assure you that cold winds and Saharan sand are not a good combination for contacts even when wearing sunglasses. 

Earplugs: 
If you are a light sleeper, I suggest some earplugs for nights spent in a hotel. During both trips, I either had trouble falling asleep or staying asleep because of the constant honking and other street noises. I generally had no issues falling asleep in the Nile cruises but it is definitely more of a challenge trying to get a great night sleep in the hotels, especially if your room fronts a busy street. 

Blow Dryer: 
In my recent trip, neither hotel had a blow dryer and while the Nile cruise did have one, it was not too powerful. And it should be noted the hotels did not have an outlet in the bathroom so you will need to dry your hair in the room. 

Adapters: 
The voltage in Egypt is 220 V so one needs adapters. I also recommend taking a power strip given the shortage of outlets; my hotel and Nile cruise rooms only had two outlets which posed a problem with the number of chargers one uses (phone, camera, tablet, etc.) plus the blow dryer and hair straightener in the mornings. 

Extra Memory Cards: 
This may seem obvious but during my first trip to Egypt, I took only one memory card and really had to limit my picture taking towards the end of the trip. On this recent journey, I took additional memory cards and between my camera and phone I captured 1,300 pictures plus videos!!

Baby Wipes: 
The public bathrooms at the sites may not have toilet paper, or it may not be up to your standards, so I highly suggest packing some baby wipes. Furthermore, the baby wipes are great for cleaning your shoes after stepping on camel/donkey/horse poop!*

*Fortunately I did not have any poop incidents during my 2nd trip to Egypt but on my first journey, I managed to step on camel poop and then fall on donkey poop while trying to board a cart. 

Monday, June 18, 2018

TEMPLE OF LUXOR

HISTORY

The Temple of Luxor is located on the east bank of the Nile River in modern day Luxor. In ancient times, the city was called Thebes and it was the thriving capital during much of Ancient Egypt’s New Kingdom. Construction on the temple was initiated in the 18th dynasty by the Pharaoh Amenhotep III with work continued by King Tutankhamun and Horemheb. The Pharaoh Ramesses II expanded the temple during his reign in the 19th dynasty and in the Ptolemaic period, a shine was built and dedicated to Alexander the Great. 

This temple is unique in that it is still “operating” through the Mosque of Abu Haggag. After the Ptolemaic period, during the Christian area, the temple’s hypostyle hall was converted to a church. Then, with the passage of time, the Temple of Luxor was buried under the Saharan sand resulting in a mosque being built over the structure. Today, the mosque is still attached to the temple with the east wall and doorway visible from the temple’s Courtyard of Ramesses II.  



FAST FACTS

At the entrance of the temple, in front of the first pylon, once stood two 80 ft pink granite obelisk built by Ramesses II. Today, only one remains since the other was taken by the French and now stands at the Place de la Concorde in Paris. 


The pylon at the entrance measures 24 meters high by 65 meters wide and serves as a storyboard showing Ramesses at the Battle of Kadesh - the west tower depicts the pharaoh with his advisers and generals while the east tower shows him driving his chariot over the enemies. 


Upon passing the pylon, one enters the Court of Ramesses II which measures 188 ft long and 168 ft wide. The courtyard is outlined by 74 papyrus styled columns with capitals resembling flower buds. In the southern section there are several standing colossi of Ramesses II while in the northwest corner of the courtyard there is a shrine to Thutmose III. 


The Court of Ramesses II is connected to the rest of the temple via a colonnade that consists of 7 pairs of columns measuring 52 ft in height. Those columns have capitals designed as open flower papyrus. Amenhotep III started work on the colonnade with construction completed by Tutankhamun. 


The second courtyard at the Temple of Luxor is the Court of Amenhotep III. This courtyard measures 148 ft long by 184 ft wide and consists of double rows of papyrus styled columns. The northern section of the Court of Amenhotep III was the original entrance to the temple. 


The Court of Amenhotep III leads to the hypostyle which has 32 columns and is adjacent to four small rooms plus an antechamber leading to the birth room, the chapel of Alexander the Great, and the sanctuary.

The Temple of Luxor has a statue of King Tutankhamun and Queen Ankhesenamun, who was also Tut's half-sister. This statue is beautiful in that it is one of the very few statues depicting the boy king. 


VISITING TEMPLE OF LUXOR 

The Temple of Luxor is a standard item on most tour itineraries and on the to-do list for many independent travelers. A trip to this temple is usually paired with a visit to the Karnak temple complex located just a few short blocks to the north. In ancient times, these two sites were connected by an ‘Avenue of Sphinxes’; a road approximately 1.5 miles long flanked by sphinxes on both sides. Today, archeologists are recovering and restoring large portions of this avenue.


Unlike the Karnak temple complex, the Temple of Luxor is a lot smaller and tends to generate fewer crowds. When I visited the Temple of Luxor in 2010, my tour group went at 8:00PM and we were the only ones at the site. While it was great being the only group at the temple, a night visit was not nice in that it was difficult to see the details and colors on the columns and walls. My 2018 trip to the temple was during the day which afforded the opportunity to really enjoy the details and many colors. Also, despite it being day time, the crowds were almost nonexistent.




NOTE While the Temple of Luxor is a standard item on most itineraries, not all companies include the admission to this site in the tour price. Contiki used to include both the Temple of Luxor and Karnak in the tour price but now both sites are considered ‘optional’ and an extra expense. As for traveling with Trafalgar, they include in the tour price the admission to the Temple of Luxor. 

NOTE I found this to be the most accessible temple; the ground was relatively even and there were no stairs. Also, since the temple is not that large, there is not a substantial amount of walking.