Sunday, September 23, 2018

VALLEY OF THE KINGS

NOTE Pictures are not allowed at Valley of the Kings or inside the tombs unless you purchase a camera pass. I did not purchase a pass since my old camera is horrible at taking decent pictures in darker settings. As such, pictures from the tombs will be from 3rd party sources.

HISTORY

The Valley of the Kings is situated in the west bank of Luxor behind the hills and cliffs of Deir El Bahri. The site served as the burial ground (necropolis) of the New Kingdom pharaohs (Thutmose I through Ramesses X), several queens, high priests, other high ranking officials, and numerous sons of Ramesses II. Since tomb robbing was a popular hobby in Ancient Egypt, the pharaohs selected the Valley of the Kings as a burial location given its secluded nature.

The cliffs at the Valley of the Kings.
The tombs found at the Valley of the Kings vary greatly in terms of size and style but each contained store chambers and a burial chamber. The former were stocked with a myriad of items which included, but not limited to, clothes, jewelry, weapons, and furniture while the latter housed the sarcophagus containing the mummy. Furthermore, these tombs are covered with detailed paintings and reliefs portraying the pharaoh in the presence of deities and texts that served as a guide for the journey through the afterlife. Some tombs, such as the one for Ramesses VI, have a burial chamber ceiling covered with astronomical figures.

FAST FACTS

The texts found on the walls of the tombs are from the following: Book of That Which Is in the Underworld; Book of Gates; Book of Day; Book of Night; Book of the Heavenly Cow.

The first numbering system for the tombs was established by John Gardiner Wilkinson in 1827. He assigned numbers 1 through 21 on a geographic basis, from the entrance of the valley and then moving southward. As more tombs were discovered, they were numbered in chronological order.

The valley's longest tomb (KV20) belongs to Queen Hatspesut who reigned during the 18th dynasty. Her burial chamber is approximately 700 feet away from the entrance and about 320 feet below the surface.

KV5 is the site's largest and most complex tomb. This tomb was built with multiple burial chambers for the many sons of King Ramesses II.

The tomb and treasures of King Tutankhamun (KV62) were discovered in 1922 by Howard Carter.

Some tombs are well preserved while others have been damaged by time, tomb robbers, and flood waters.

VISITING THE VALLEY OF THE KINGS

The Valley of the Kings is a very interesting place to visit because unlike the necropolises found in Lower Egypt - Giza, Saqqara, and Dashur - this site is surrounded by magnificent cliffs and contains a maze of tombs each styled differently and covered in colorful reliefs. The site is a standard item on most tour itineraries and the guide will either select the three tombs for the group or he will allow each person to choose the three that pique their interest. For my first trip to Egypt, our guide selected the three tombs one of which proved a challenge to several tour mates because of the number of stairs one had to climb to enter. On this recent trip, our guide provided recommendations but allowed us to select the tombs that interested us. He also informed the group of which tombs were more challenging to visit in terms of steep climbs and descents, narrow passages, and crowds. If one is visiting the Valley without a guide, it will be wise to do some research on the tombs prior to the trip to see which ones capture your interest.

When visiting the Valley of the Kings, there are 3 key things to keep in mind. First and foremost, it is important to note that not all of the tombs are open at once so you will be limited to a handful on your visit. Secondly, your admission ticket provides entry to three ‘standard’ tombs while special tombs like those of Ramesses VI and Tutankhamun are extra fees. I paid those fees during my first visit in 2010 but this time around, the tomb of Ramesses VI was closed (per my tour guide) and I was not interested in revisiting Tutankhamun’s tomb. Ramesses VI tomb is very much worth the visit given its size, amazing artwork, and lack of crowds. King Tut's tomb is worth at least one visit but since the tomb has 'celebrity' status, the lines are long and it can get crowded inside. It should be noted, and this is the third important item, that the tomb of King Tut is the only one to display a mummy. All other mummies are either at the Egyptian Museum in Cairo or lost to history.

Photo from Tour Mate John S.
Board at the entrance that displays which tombs are open.

Between my two trips to Egypt, I have visited the tombs of Thutmose III, Ramesses III (twice), Ramesses IV (twice), Ramesses VI, Ramesses IX, Tutankhamun, and Merenptah. Of those seven, my favorites have been the tombs of Thutmose III and Ramesses VI with the former housing extensive artwork in various stages of progress and the latter displaying the famous vaulted ceiling painted to depict the night sky.

PHOTOS COURTESY OF TOUR EGYPT AND LONELY PLANET

These are photos of Ramesses VI's tomb, one of the most beautiful in the 
Valley of the Kings. A visit to this tomb is definitely worth the extra fee.  





Admission Ticket


NOTE The ground around the valley is rocky and uneven and some of the tombs contain steep climbs and descents. It is recommended that one wears sturdy, closed-toed shoes when visiting the Valley of the Kings.

NOTE When visiting the Valley of the Kings, the guards (mainly locals not actual police/security) that stand at the tomb entrances may give you a flashlight, fan, or other item to use while inside. Do not accept these items as said guards will be expecting a tip when you exit the tomb. There is sufficient light in the tombs that one does not need a flashlight.



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